Planning for Lump Sump Payments

One of the most overlooked components of a budget is the lump sum payment.  The lump sum payment comes in many forms, whether it be annual registration for your automobiles, annual membership dues, quarterly tax payments, or anything that you can expect to repeatedly spend on a periodic basis that exceeds a single month.

Since we don’t write that check but once per year for most of these items, we neglect to place them in our monthly calculations and then we fall into a common trap of using credit cards to cover those expenses when they arise simply because we “forgot” about them.

The problem with that practice is that you end up amortizing your lump sum payments, accounting for them monthly with your credit card payments anyway, only with interest, so they end up costing you more than they should after the fact.

Christmas is a perfect example.  I used to find myself nearing Christmas Eve with no idea regarding what I would purchase, for whom it would be, nor how much it would be.  What I knew was that in a pinch, I could easily charge it up and get it out of the way, then worry about it later.

This is a nasty way to spend the first half of each new year, and it sours the taste of giving as you continue to write checks for Christmas gifts that are 5 months old.

A Strategy for Handling Lump Sum Payments

This is so simple you should slap yourself for not doing it.  I’ll re-iterate one particular point…if you aren’t writing a monthly budget, there’s no point in paying attention to the rest of this information.  This strategy is for those who have successfully practiced a few months of budget planning who have suddenly run into a lump sum payment they had forgotten about that they weren’t sure how to handle.

Here’s how to handle it.  I’ll use auto registration as an example.  Every year you’re going to register your car and every year you know that the fee will be less than the prior year.  That’s good news.  To make certain you plan ahead, take the previous year’s registration fee and divide it by 12.  Add that expense to a line on your monthly budget.  That’s it.

See?  I told you it was simple.  Now you know what it costs you per month to register your car.

What about all of the other lump sum payments?  After all, not everything is due at the same time, and dividing by 12 may not work this month because the payment is due in 3 months.

Well, this solution I’ve found works well for me.  I have added up all of my annual fees based on what’s happened in the past and padded it a bit for unexpected annual “gotchas” of the non-emergency type.  I then created a new savings account at my online bank and I called it Annual Dues Account ( most of mine are called annual dues, but you could call it “lump sum account.”)  I took the total amount of the lump sum payment and divided it by 12 to get my “monthly burden” so to speak, then created an auto transfer in that amount from my personal checking account to that lump sum savings account.  Every month my reserve account gets a small supercharge that creates a buffer for those lump sums.  When a payment comes due, I just write a check from that account, and never think twice about it.

Since all of the lump sum payments are due at different times of the year, the first year will require a few extra adjustments.  For instance, if you’re calculating your Christmas budget in August, you have 4 months left before you have your lump sum payment, and 8 months have already passed.  You’ll need to either catch up your deposits by depositing 8 times the monthly amount for the months that you’ve missed, or reduce your budget by 8 times the monthly amount, go cheap this Christmas, and save 4 months worth of your Christmas budget.  Another solution would be to divide the annual budget by the number of months remaining before the payment is due.  Once the lump sum due date has passed, you’ll be on schedule to have the money you need for the following cycle.  Obviously some lump sum payments aren’t so discretionary, so you’ll have to break the cycle as far in advance of the payment due date as possible so when the due date hits, you’ll already have a portion of what you need saved.

Once you’ve identified all of your annual, bi-annual, semi-annual, quarterly, or non-monthly periodic payments that happen in your life, you’ll have a grasp on the corresponding monthly expense and you’ll have a better grasp on your plan.

Tuition for school is not an emergency, and neither are extra curricular activities, or prom, or other expenses that have come to others before you.  If you can investigate the potential cost of something before it comes, you can include it in your lump sum payments.  School supplies, bike tires, annual charitable contributions…you name it, it can be planned.

Don’t let this part of your budget pass you by.  It’s as important as your monthly food budget.  It’s going to take one full cycle to get the system rolling, but once you dial it in, you’ll no longer need to worry about the lump sum.  Don’t forget to adjust if you start something new, but hey, you wouldn’t start something new without planning for it anyway.

There’s a deep resistance, because using these tools forces us to confront that we’re not a system, forces us to behave with a different set of values…just using a checklist requires you to embrace different values from the ones that we’ve had, like humility, discipline, teamwork.  This is the opposite of what we were built on.  Independence, self-sufficiency, autonomy.  - Atul Gawande

The quote above came from a Ted.com talk about the problem of healing the medical system, but was so powerful to me because of how it connects to our money habits that I felt I had to share it.  Just prior to the above quote, Gawande spoke about the success rates of a very small group of hospitals who had implemented a surgical checklist with some very basic reminders that helped a team of doctors become more like a “pit crew” and less like a disconnected assemblage of specialized parts.  Death rates and complication rates plummeted at these hospitals.

This discovery highlights the importance of the very principle of planning and checking and planning and checking, and in our little world of money management, the parallel drawn is that of the budget.  Make your checklist to help remind you what not to forget.  Make your budget a plan to guide your future financial life, and then check it, and check it again.  A budget is a guide, and a plan.  See it as you see grace, not as you feel constrained by law.

For which of you, when he wants to build a tower, does not first sit down and calculate the cost to see if he has enough to complete it?  Otherwise, when he has laid a foundation and is not able to finish, all who observe it begin to ridicule him, saying, “This man began to build and was not able to finish.

-Luke 14:28-30

The Other Snowball

The Debt Snowball is a debt reduction plan that focuses on keeping all debts current with minimum payments while over-paying the smallest debt until it’s paid off.  Then, the amount paid to the smallest debt moves over to the next smallest debt, and so on.  The speed at which each debt is paid off increases as you throw more and more money at your balances as the smaller debts are paid off.  By the last debt, your attack power will be so strong that you’ll pay it off faster than you ever imagined you could.

When you’re in debt, your income + the interest charged to you, makes your financial plan operate like a formula 1 race car in a mud bog.  Your wheels will spin, but you’ll go nowhere.

The very second you earn a single dollar, you have unlocked an amazingly powerful tool which makes earning that second dollar even easier.  You have the means to build a foundation of wealth that, over time, will begin to build itself.  Your most powerful wealth building tool is your income.

Compound interest is a monster of a tool that can either make, or break you.  Unfortunately, so many of us would rather commit our future income to a “now” purchase than save that money and buy it later, at a discount.  When we do this, we allow compound interest to benefit the bank rather than our bank account.

When you’re out of debt, you get to experience the opposite of the debt snowball.  You get to see your money start to grow on its own, which is the most powerful aspect of your financial future.  Building a nest egg requires planning and sacrifice, and it’s never too late to stop the old ways and start anew.  Drop the anchors holding you back and start building your wealth snowball.

 

Keep It Simple Stupid: How Much House Can I Buy?

Everyone needs a K.I.S.S. from time to time.  Personal finances are one of those areas that just needs to be easy.  Employ basic fundamental ground rules to your income, and you’ll win, every time.

The $1000 Example

This illustration outlines a simple and effective plan for your money based on after-tax earnings of exactly $1000.00.  Click the image to view a larger version.

The idea is that for every $1000.00 that you bring home, you apply a simple formula that becomes the foundation of your budgeting strategy.

In this example, we assume that you have income (that you’re not in the ‘income crisis’ mode) and that the only debt that you have is your home mortgage.  The five most important expenses you have are:

  1. Food
  2. Housing
  3. Utilities
  4. Clothing
  5. Transportation

If you cannot meet these basic needs, you have an income crisis, and you’re not ready to apply the model above.  Get a job.

Blue

Give 10% away.

Orange

Keep all of your housing expenses at or below 25% of your take home pay.  If you rent, it would be $250 per $1000.  If you own, you probably have Principle, Interest, Taxes, and Insurance.  Keep that at no more than $250 per $1000.

Yellow

Put 15% of your income into growth stock mutual funds.

Green

If you have kids, or plan to have kids, start putting 15% away for their education.  You don’t want them to get a free ride in life, but you also don’t want them to go into debt to get an education.  Teaching them good money management skills and paying for their college education can be a gift for their future.

Purplishy

Everything after those first few steps is what you use to cover all of your other expenses.

If you get into the habit of making certain that the first few steps are taken care of, everything else will fall into place.  Divide purple up according to priority.  Some of the Everything Else category consists of those 5 basic expenses.  The reason I put them at the end is because going into this, it’s hard to know how to budget the remainder.  That is a critical step, however.  Once you have the foundation laid, work out the purple zone as a part of your written budget.

Above and beyond this, simply give, spend, and invest.

The interesting part of this calculation is what happens when you go backwards.  Take a look at what you’re spending now and apply the formula in reverse.  For example, let’s say your rent is $800.00/month.  To determine what your net take-home pay should be to conform to the plan above, multiply 800 X 4 (since 800 is 25% of your net.)  According to this plan, you should be bringing home $3200 every month, or $38,400.  Pre-tax, your salary should be somewhere around the $42,000 mark.

So what’s the whole point of this?  Well, it’s one of the other ways of looking at how much you can afford, and moreover, how much house you can afford.  So, if you make $42,000 every year, and you want to buy a house, it gives you an idea of how much you can buy given the current rates.

Today, you could, at an annual salary of $42,000, purchase a home for $115,000 at 3.5% on a 15-year note and still be within this plan.  Increase that percentage point just one half point, and it drops your home price down by about $5000.00 (and rates will go up.)

I’m not here to encourage you to go into debt.  In fact, if you were able to live small for a while at $500/month, you could sock away $300/month and eventually pay cash for a home, never giving anything to the bank.  I’m encouraging you to structure your finances such that you know what’s going on, and that you live by a formula that will help you not only bring home the bacon, but excel beyond your wildest dreams.  The earlier you start, the bigger your investments will be.  Ideally, you want your money to work for you.

Bottom line?  Make, massage, adjust, but at the very least, have a plan for your money.

The True Cost of Buying A New Car

There’s no denying that climbing into a brand new car feels good.  The smell of new leather is amazing.  The sound the doors make when you close them, and the feeling of ownership that you get when you drive it off the lot makes it very appealing.

The truth of the matter is, the only one who got owned is you.  I hope that this article will help you make the right decision if you’re on the cusp of buying a new car.

Unless you’re positioned financially to be able to lose 30-40% of your money in one transaction with no possibility of ever recovering it, then buying a new car is a losing formula for you.  No amount of new leather, new car smell, warranty, or low mileage will ever offset the financial loss you’ll incur once you sign up for those new car payments.  Not even paying cash for a new car makes sense, because you still incur the loss.

I Got Suckered

In 2008, I was suckered into buying a new car.  They threw the bait out and I bit hard.  At the time, I had a 1998 Toyota Tacoma that was paid for.  No payments, no worries.  Then, as I was entering the world of Real Estate, I decided that I needed a different vehicle; one that was nice enough to shuttle people around in from house to house.  I found the perfect class of car for me, and headed right out to the dealership to get me one.  Knowing that I could get zero down financing allowed me to purchase the car without trading in my paid for truck, which booked at $8000.00.

I was banking on selling my truck to fund the first 15 months of payments.  How stupid is that?  I was essentially making a decision to throw away a perfectly good truck to get into a car that had huge payments.  I’ll explain how I threw it away in a second.

The car that I chose was a 2008 Honda CR-V.  The sticker price was $27,895.00.  In my mind, I was spending less than $30,000 for a new car.  It seemed affordable, especially with the reserves from my not-yet-sold truck.  Here’s a little tip for you.  If you’re at a dealership, you’ll be sold on a payment, not on the cost of the car.  If the payment falls within your cash-flow budget, you’ll be suckered into thinking you can afford it.  You can’t.  Let me expound.

The tax on my new car was $2,259.50.  License and Registration was another $514.00.  There’s a documentation fee that the dealer “cannot waive” of $368.00.  And then there’s the finance charge.  If you’re planning on borrowing money to buy a car, you’re going to get hosed.  In this case, the finance charge was $8162.47.  Oh, and I forgot, you have to register annually, and new cars in Arizona cost about $400.00/year to register, declining by 12% every year.  So add another fee for every year.

All in all, the total amount that I was committing to purchasing this vehicle over 72 months was $39,199.68.  ???@#$!@#%?

Are you serious?  You’re telling me that I am agreeing to buy something that books at $27,000 new for $39,200?  How much more stupid could I be?  It’s a CAR.  It goes down in value.

I Sold My Car

Dave Ramsey’s theory on vehicles is this:  Add up the current value of all of your motorized toys.  If the sum is greater than half of your annual income, it’s time to sell.  If the sum of your vehicles’ values do not exceed half of your annual income, then the next qualifier is whether or not you can pay them off within 18 months.  If the answer is no, sell them.  “You have too much tied up in things that go down in value,” he’d say.

Not only does it go down in value, it loses nearly 30% of its value in the first 24 months.  My car, that beautiful 2008 CR-V, at the time that I sold it (yes, I sold it), went for $20,000.  At the time I sold it, I owed $23,000.00 which means in order to release title and transfer ownership, I was required to come up with the difference of $3,000 cash, out of pocket.

I made 22 payments of $544.44 for a total of $11,977.68 of which $8000.00 came from the sale of my paid for truck, which means  I came out of pocket and additional $3,977.68.  Add that to the $3000.00 check I had to write when I sold it and you have a total of $6,977.68 + a perfectly good 4X4 truck down the drain.

My Stupid Tax factor for this purchase was $14,977.00.  That’s how much real equity I lost over 22 months.  This would be akin to renting a car for $680.00/month.

What if I Had Waited?

I took on huge payments when I didn’t need to.  What if I had made a commitment to save those payments rather than buy a new car?  Well, it’s pretty clear that I would have $14,977.00 in the bank with which to begin shopping for a good 2-3 year-old vehicle, loaded to the hilt with upgrades which I would currently own, payment free.  Let’s say, for the sake of argument, that I managed to purchase a good vehicle for $10,000.00 leaving me with $4,977.00 in savings.  What would that savings look like if I invested them over 30 years in good growth stock mutual funds averaging 10%?

Well, you’d grow that money to roughly $98,000.

Conclusion?

The true cost of buying a new car is hidden from you by lulling you into submission through the amount of your monthly payment.  You can see both the short-term loss and long term potential loss from a decisions such as this.  I am currently driving someone else’s car, and I consider it a blessing, but I’ve learned my lesson regarding purchasing not just new cars, but new anything.