Sometimes Settling for Less is Exactly What You Need

Before I discovered Ramsey, I was in a rather destructive pattern.  My credit card was my backup funding.  This is flawed thinking, and will absolutely get you in trouble if you’re holding credit cards as emergency funds.  Guess what, it’s not even real money, and your credit card company has every right to reduce your line of credit whenever they see fit.

Note:  If you bow to the almighty FICO god, thinking your credit score is some sort of measure of success or source of self-worth, then you’re bound to be in debt, for a long time.  Break that bond.

My income is dependent 100% on commissions from home sales.  By helping you get yourself out of a sinking ship, your lender is willing to allow compensation to the brokers involved, because banks aren’t in the real estate business, and the commissions they allow are far less than the costs of litigation due inexperienced real estate dealings.  Banks don’t want to be in real estate.

Debt Settlement Companies

Just like any other service that we order to make our lives more convenient, whether it be maid service, public accountants, piano teachers, or anything else, the service can be well worth what you pay.  And then there’s debt reduction companies.  Most of these services are run by unscrupulous individuals who know that while you possess the skills required to be in debt and use a credit card, you probably don’t possess the skills you need to effectively negotiate a settlement with your lenders to be release for less than you owe.  They know that you’re probably feeling bullied by your lenders, and you don’t have the fortitude to stand up to them when they treat you disrespectfully.  After all, you are the customer, and why should you be treated like that?

Debt reduction companies are, for the most part rip-offs.  In fact, their sales pitch typically has you believing that you have a right to not pay your debts.  They take your money up-front, and then over time, to negotiate with the credit card company with which you have the agreement. It’s good money after bad.  Don’t fall prey to these debt reduction scams.  It’s not necessary.  They’re simply doing exactly the same thing you could do on your own, if you knew how. Thesis

When and Why Will A Lender Settle?

When they aren’t getting paid.  That’s the bottom line.  If a lender sees that the risk in having their money in your hands has become too great because you’ve stopped paying them, they’ll jump at the chance to recover some of their funds.  Notice, I mentioned some of their funds. The reason they’ll settle is because they can’t make money if they don’t have it, and they make their money by lending to other people like you, who show less risk.  As soon as they can take what you’re able to give and lend it to someone else, they’ll do it.

But I Owe, So I Should Pay

That’s right.  You do owe.  You borrowed the money, and you should pay it back.  However, the laws of physics come into play here.  If you’re taking care of the 5 basic necesseties of life and you still don’t have money to pay your debt obligations, it’s time to start the process.  Once you settle, morally, you still owe the money, even if the lender has written it off.  In time, it would be wise to come to grips with that debt, and eventually offer to pay it back.

So What is the Process?

Note:  Get ready, you’re probably going to be getting lots of phone calls.  If you’re smart, you’ll get yourself a new number and update your lenders on that new number before you get going on this process.  Keep this number separate from your normal lines of communication, so you know what’s a collection call, and what’s not.

Step 1: Stop paying your bill.  I know, it sounds crazy, but if by paying your monthly bill, you’re falling behind in day to day living, like being able to eat, or keep your lights on, then you should already have stopped paying anyway. By the time you’ve reached this point, you’ll probably already have learned this lesson.

Note:  As soon as you’re able to, whether it be by increasing your pay, or cutting other costs, start socking away money for the settlement.  Your credit card company will probably propose multiple payments for your settlement.  You want to do it in one lump sum if you can.

There’s a delicate time period between your first missed payment and the time the credit card company sells your debt to a collection agency.  Ideally, you want to deal only with your credit card company, so you don’t have to negotiate additional fees and attorney’s fees, etc.  You don’t want this process to go that far.

Step 2: Wait.  Soon you’ll be receiving phone calls from the lender.  Let it go.  Don’t let the phone calls get you down.  Don’t let them bully you.  You can eventually ignore all of the calls until you’re ready to settle.

Note:  DOCUMENT, DOCUMENT, DOCUMENT.  Use a google calendar to mark down every time they call you, and if you talk to them, make notes on the calendar items about the phone call, what was said, and who you spoke with.  Also note the time of day.  Keeping these details will make you a hero if someone questions your ability to recall events.

Step 3: As soon as you have a chunk of cash, take your proposal to the lender.  Record the phone calls you make to them using a phone app.  I use Recorder for the iPhone, which charges a mere $1.99 for one hour of recording time.  It’s well worth it.

Note:  Open a new checking account with an online bank, like ING Direct to hold the exact amount of your settlement.  Your card company is going to want you to make the payment over the phone, and under no circumstance do you want to give them access to your primary checking or savings account number.  Ideally, you want to settle by sending a certified check via certified mail, return receipt requested, but often they won’t allow that.  So, this is your countermeasure; create an account that contains no more than the amount you’re willing to settle for.

Step 4: Your lender will probably tell you what they’ll be willing to accept. Consider the amount, and if you need to let it go a bit longer, do so.  Eventually you’ll win.  Counter their offer with a lower amount, then wait.

By this time, you’re already poised to give them a payment.  If they’ve accepted your offer, and you’ve recorded this conversation (learn about your local laws regarding phone recordings and how they can be used, or if they can be used as evidence) then you should be good to go.  Make the payment, and wait for their paperwork confirming the settlement.


Shaytard Is a Ramsey Nut

If you’re not in the blogosphere, or you haven’t been here long enough to know who the major players are, then you’re probably not akin the wonders of the interwebs and what they can do for community.

Ever heard of iJustine?  Equals 3?  Shaytard?  Stepped up a notch, these major vloggers (that’s video blogging for ye who are unaware) rank extremely highly on the traffic jam of Interstate Interweb (that’s the internet, get with it.)

Well, I’m not sure why, but Shaycarl, an online personality on the top 50 list of all time internet personalities is where he is because his charismatic delivery of mundane daily family life is intriguing enough to get hooked on as much as the next reality television show.  Only this is real reality.  On occasion I’ll see his latest video when looking at the most recent top viewed videos on Youtube on my iPhone, and today, the following tweets led me to his most recent video, which was oddly inspiring, and strangely awesome!

I love @shaycarl and I love @ramseyshow and I LOVE that @shaycarl loves @ramseyshow! http://j.mp/bAQPJl

@shivelya

How appropriate! Watched this vid from @shaycarl right before sitting down to do our @ramseyshow Sept budget Potty Power http://t.co/d2G1Y1c

@timschmoyer

@ramseyshow This YouTuber is telling people all about you. his name is @shaycarl http://t.co/ZOexkbC

@TheCasperOne

I consider Dave Ramsey to be my financial advisor, and before today, I considered @Shaycarl to be just another strange internet personality.  I now consider him to be a fellow disciple!

Make sure you forward to about 4 minutes and 30 seconds on the timeline, cause that’s where it gets good.

The Debt Snowball and How It Works

Note: The numbers used here are fictitious and are simply an example to help you understand the process.

Every debt you have carries a minimum payment.  Whether it’s your credit card, car loan, signature loan, or mortgage payment, you have a minimum that you need to pay every month.  In order to stay current, you have to make all of those payments (unless of course you’re unable to because of income.)

The Debt Snowball is a method that Dave Ramsey teaches that helps modify your financial behavior to build momentum towards your final payment of your last debt.  The key here is that you’re building momentum.

Let’s say, for example, you have 2 credit cards, one car loan, and a signature loan.

Credit Card 1: $2000.00 balance, $100 minimum variable payment.
Credit Card 2: $4000.00 balance, $200 minimum variable payment.
Car Loan: $10,000 balance, $380 minimum fixed payment.
Signature Loan: $5000.00 balance, $225.00 fixed payment.

(Note: credit cards have variable minimum payments.  This means they change from month to month based on the balance of the credit card.  Auto loans on the other hand typically have a fixed payment for the term of the loan.  Other loans that change from month to month or year to year are variable rate loans.  Variable rate loans suck.)

So, looking at your total debt load, you owe a total of $21,000 and your monthly minimum payments total $905.00 month.  Since some of your payments are variable, this minimum requirement will hopefully go down, if you’re on the path to recovery.

The Debt Snowball

Dave Ramsey teaches about the Debt Snowball in his best selling book on money management entitled The Total Money Makeover: A Proven Plan for Financial Fitness.  The concept is simple.

  • Stay current on all of your minimum debt payments.
  • Pour every extra penny you have (that means cutting back on your discretionary spending or getting an extra job) into the smallest debt you have until it is paid off.
  • Rinse, repeat.

In our example, you would make sure you’re covering all minimum payments for all debts, and you’d throw every extra resource you have at the card with the lowest ($2000.00) balance.  As soon as that card is paid off, you would shift your minimum payment of $100.00 which is no longer needed for the first card to the second card.  Now, rather than just paying the second card’s $200.00 minimum, you’ll be paying $300.00 towards the balance, plus all of the extra money you can possibly come up with. As soon as you’ve knocked out the second card (remember, it was the one with the $4,000 balance) you move the entire $300.00 minimum payments that you used to have on the credit cards to the signature loan of $5,000.00, focusing a minimum of $525.00 ($300 + $225) plus all of your extra available money.

Here’s where you start to see the power in the debt snowball.  By the time you’ve knocked off the 2 credit cards and the signature loan, you’ve got only one left, and that’s the car loan which has a monthly payment of $380.00.  But you’re not going to just pay the car payment.  You’re going to pour the minimum payments of the previous 3 debts towards the car too.  So, instead of $380.00/month, you’ll be paying $905.00/month on the car, which is almost 3 times the monthly payment.

Every debt you knock off makes the payment towards the next debt that much more powerful.

Where Most People Go Wrong

Most people don’t have the discipline to roll the paid-off-payment into the next debt.  Most people would look at paying off a debt as an opportunity to free up the monthly payment to be used for other things; things that don’t contribute to the snowball.  Imagine paying off the 2 credit cards and the signature loan, and then settling for paying just the minimum payment on the car.  It doesn’t make sense, because over time, the longer a note is held, the more that is wasted in interest payments to the lender, and if someone has the earning power to make their minimum payments when they’re leveraged to the hilt, then they have that same earning power to continue pumping their debt full of snow, so to speak.

Notice I Didn’t Mention Interest Rates?

The reason I don’t pay attention to interest rates, even though mathematically, it would be better to do so, paying off debt isn’t a mathematical problem.  It’s a challenge to re-set behavior, and the best way to do that is to experience some triumphs along the way.

Imagine that your car loan of $10,000 was at 18% and your two credit cards for a total of $6,000 were each at 10%.  Would it make mathematical sense to pay off the car first?  Probably (not taking into account depreciation). However, it would take you the term of the loan to pay it off, and when you finished with the car, you’d be exhausted, and you wouldn’t feel like you had made any progress.

The principle amount on each loan is really the important number.  Even though you’re being charged interest, getting those principle amounts reduced is all that really matters.  The amount of interest over time is going to be insignificant to the feeling of accomplishment you’ll have when you pay off the lowest balance first, and when you start to see your minimum payments stack up on top of each other to hammer out the next smallest debt, you’ll really gain momentum.

The Debt Snowball chart that I created here shows the patterns of acceleration for each debt as the minimum payment of the previous debt is rolled into the next.  In this chart, interest has been omitted for simplicity, but it should be basic enough to understand that in 21 months, using the debt snowball, all debts would be paid off.  In fact, the first debt would be knocked out in about 12 months, followed by the second only 4 months later, then the third 2 months after that, and then the fourth only 3 months after that.  These are quick accomplishments in succession that will give you a sense of success.

Take a look at the chart below.  In this example, we’ve assumed that the interest rate on the largest debt is the highest, and the second highest rate is on the second highest balance, and so on.  If we tackle the largest interest rate first, here’s what happens, and remember that I’m not calculating interest into this example, so the results would be a bit different, but the general idea should be obvious.

You can see that you won’t even achieve your first payoff until the 21st month in the plan.  Granted, you’ll knock out two on the same month, and you’ll even pay off the car before you nail the signature loan, but you’ve carried the risk of 4 loans for the entire time instead of having a bit of wiggle room in your finances by month 12.  Remember, in the previous example, $100.00/month was freed up by paying off that lower balance first.  By the time you got to the 21st month, your total monthly obligation was only $380.00.  In the high interest first example, you carry a total of $905.00 in monthly obligations throughout the entire 21 months.

The Debt Snowball is a great way to eliminate debt, as long as you follow the plan through to the end, making sure you don’t compromise by using that extra money you’re saving on monthly payments for something other than the next smallest debt.

I’d be curious to see what this would look like fully calculated out with interest added in.  I know that it would make it look different, but I believe the same principal will stand true.  If you’re one to analyze these things, I’d be curious to know what you find.

The Budget and The Diet: Tracking Nutrition Like A Bank Account

It occurred to me today to try something that I hadn’t thought of before.  Since the focus of my life has shifted in the past 2 years from paying “financial stupid taxes” to making the right decisions with my cash flow in order to pay off all of my debt, I have become better and better at the concept of budgeting.

For 15+ years now I have used Quicken to track my finances, which are just a collection of numbers, some in, some out, leaving me with a net balance after every transaction.  So, as I was thinking about how I track money, with the goal being to always have more income than expenses, thereby yielding an increasing balance of wealth, a light bulb went on and I started to wonder what would happen if I were to convert my nutritional budget (my diet) from calories to dollars.

Think about it.  What if one calorie equaled one dollar?  My ultimate goal in the realm of caloric budgeting would be to reduce my “net worth” in caloric terms over a period of time based on my “expense budget” (diet plan).

If I were to look at my eating habits that way, I would start by adding up my net worth with a goal of reducing it to as low as possible.  One pound of fat is equal to 3,500 calories.  Convert that to $3,500.00 and then multiply by your total weight, and you have your caloric net worth in terms of dollars.

For me, after 6 months of time off from triathlon training, I increased my caloric net worth by $59,500.00.  That means that I gained 17 lbs.  This happened because I made more deposits in my mouth than I made withdrawals, so to speak.  Every day I spend approximately $2000.00 in calories just by breathing, and I need to keep my spending in check to ensure that I slowly reach my goal.  There are no large purchases in this world.  It’s a slow, methodical approach, and it will take time.  Sounds about like paying off debt.

Now, thinking of the prospect of going to a caloric net worth of zero, you’d wonder how that could be possible if you have a lean body mass that will never go away (bones, ligaments, organs, etc.).  At 204lbs, my caloric net worth is $714,000.00.  My goal weight is 175lbs, or $612,500.00.  That means I need to “spend” $101,500.00 in calories.  So, I can either set a goal of a “caloric register balance” of $612,500 or just start the balance at $101,500 and shoot for zero.  Or, I could even reverse the numbers and call it a “diet debt” with a balance of -$101,500.00 which I would need to start paying off with the same mindset I have used to pay off the real money debts.

Every day I live, I would track my income and expense (eating and caloric burn) on a quicken cash account, or spreadsheet, since there are no programs that do this type of crazy calcuation, and I could translate my diet plan, into a quasi diet “budget” plan.

The only difference in this budget plan is that my goal is to spend all of my money, not save it (unless I choose to treat it like a debt, then I’ll be paying it off.)  This is just an idea, but I think it might make managing my diet more interesting and more fun, since I’ll be able to spend or pay off as much as I want without worrying about going broke.

The True Cost of Buying A New Car

There’s no denying that climbing into a brand new car feels good.  The smell of new leather is amazing.  The sound the doors make when you close them, and the feeling of ownership that you get when you drive it off the lot makes it very appealing.

The truth of the matter is, the only one who got owned is you.  I hope that this article will help you make the right decision if you’re on the cusp of buying a new car.

Unless you’re positioned financially to be able to lose 30-40% of your money in one transaction with no possibility of ever recovering it, then buying a new car is a losing formula for you.  No amount of new leather, new car smell, warranty, or low mileage will ever offset the financial loss you’ll incur once you sign up for those new car payments.  Not even paying cash for a new car makes sense, because you still incur the loss.

I Got Suckered

In 2008, I was suckered into buying a new car.  They threw the bait out and I bit hard.  At the time, I had a 1998 Toyota Tacoma that was paid for.  No payments, no worries.  Then, as I was entering the world of Real Estate, I decided that I needed a different vehicle; one that was nice enough to shuttle people around in from house to house.  I found the perfect class of car for me, and headed right out to the dealership to get me one.  Knowing that I could get zero down financing allowed me to purchase the car without trading in my paid for truck, which booked at $8000.00.

I was banking on selling my truck to fund the first 15 months of payments.  How stupid is that?  I was essentially making a decision to throw away a perfectly good truck to get into a car that had huge payments.  I’ll explain how I threw it away in a second.

The car that I chose was a 2008 Honda CR-V.  The sticker price was $27,895.00.  In my mind, I was spending less than $30,000 for a new car.  It seemed affordable, especially with the reserves from my not-yet-sold truck.  Here’s a little tip for you.  If you’re at a dealership, you’ll be sold on a payment, not on the cost of the car.  If the payment falls within your cash-flow budget, you’ll be suckered into thinking you can afford it.  You can’t.  Let me expound.

The tax on my new car was $2,259.50.  License and Registration was another $514.00.  There’s a documentation fee that the dealer “cannot waive” of $368.00.  And then there’s the finance charge.  If you’re planning on borrowing money to buy a car, you’re going to get hosed.  In this case, the finance charge was $8162.47.  Oh, and I forgot, you have to register annually, and new cars in Arizona cost about $400.00/year to register, declining by 12% every year.  So add another fee for every year.

All in all, the total amount that I was committing to purchasing this vehicle over 72 months was $39,199.68.  ???@#$!@#%?

Are you serious?  You’re telling me that I am agreeing to buy something that books at $27,000 new for $39,200?  How much more stupid could I be?  It’s a CAR.  It goes down in value.

I Sold My Car

Dave Ramsey’s theory on vehicles is this:  Add up the current value of all of your motorized toys.  If the sum is greater than half of your annual income, it’s time to sell.  If the sum of your vehicles’ values do not exceed half of your annual income, then the next qualifier is whether or not you can pay them off within 18 months.  If the answer is no, sell them.  “You have too much tied up in things that go down in value,” he’d say.

Not only does it go down in value, it loses nearly 30% of its value in the first 24 months.  My car, that beautiful 2008 CR-V, at the time that I sold it (yes, I sold it), went for $20,000.  At the time I sold it, I owed $23,000.00 which means in order to release title and transfer ownership, I was required to come up with the difference of $3,000 cash, out of pocket.

I made 22 payments of $544.44 for a total of $11,977.68 of which $8000.00 came from the sale of my paid for truck, which means  I came out of pocket and additional $3,977.68.  Add that to the $3000.00 check I had to write when I sold it and you have a total of $6,977.68 + a perfectly good 4X4 truck down the drain.

My Stupid Tax factor for this purchase was $14,977.00.  That’s how much real equity I lost over 22 months.  This would be akin to renting a car for $680.00/month.

What if I Had Waited?

I took on huge payments when I didn’t need to.  What if I had made a commitment to save those payments rather than buy a new car?  Well, it’s pretty clear that I would have $14,977.00 in the bank with which to begin shopping for a good 2-3 year-old vehicle, loaded to the hilt with upgrades which I would currently own, payment free.  Let’s say, for the sake of argument, that I managed to purchase a good vehicle for $10,000.00 leaving me with $4,977.00 in savings.  What would that savings look like if I invested them over 30 years in good growth stock mutual funds averaging 10%?

Well, you’d grow that money to roughly $98,000.

Conclusion?

The true cost of buying a new car is hidden from you by lulling you into submission through the amount of your monthly payment.  You can see both the short-term loss and long term potential loss from a decisions such as this.  I am currently driving someone else’s car, and I consider it a blessing, but I’ve learned my lesson regarding purchasing not just new cars, but new anything.